Food: Great Glasses


Choosing the best organic and biodynamic bottles


By Carol Huang



Photo courtesy of Brick House

With all the vintners on the biodynamic scene these days, how do you choose the best bottle? We turned to sustainable grape expert Scott Pactor, who stocks roughly 250 varieties of organic and biodynamic wines at his natural wine store in New York City, Appellation (appellationnyc.com). Here are some of his favorites:

Domaine Leflaive, Puligny-Montrachet Folatieres, France, 2001.

From one of the world’s great producers of white burgundy, with hints of lemon and vanilla. Terrific nuttiness  minerality, and highlights of oak. Domaine Leflaive became completely biodynamic in 1997 under the direction of Anne-Claude Leflaive. $150.

Brick House, Pinot Noir, Oregon, 2004.
Bright and ruby-colored; fruity with flavors of plums, currants, and sweet earth. A firm structure, soft and round on the palate with a long finish. Pairs well with roast lamb or pork. $45.

Movia, Tokai Friulano, Slovenia, 2004.
A gem with a bouquet of almonds and field flowers. Two years of aging give it depth, making it perfect as an aperitif or paired with fish or risotto. $25.

Soellner, Gruner Veltliner, Austria, 2005.
A deep, vibrant wine whose crisp acidity and versatility has made it an up-and-coming favorite. A light- to medium-bodied wine produced on vineyards alive with birds, insects, and animals. Great with seafood, pasta, or alone. $14.

Ona, Carmenère, Maipo Valley, Chile, 2003.
Dark, fruity, spicy, and rich with tannins, this Chilean wine comes from a grape originally found in Bordeaux, where it was nearly annihilated by phylloxera, a tiny insect related to aphids. Since then, the grape has thrived in Chile’s lush Central Valley, bordered by the Andes and mountain streams. $11.

Issue 25



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