Food: Farm to Fork with Dan Barber
Dan Barber elevates ingredients like asparagus, peas, and farm-fresh eggs into a spectacular spring dish
By Dan Barber
Photo Jen Munkvold
A rose is a rose is … okay but I can tell you an egg is certainly not an egg. We learned the hard way four years ago when Blue Hill at Stone Barns opened, and we switched from conventional eggs to Stone Barns’ pastured eggs. Our pastry chef, Joel, who has worked with us since the beginning, came into my office, white faced and panicked. “I can’t get anything to work,” he said, clearly not celebrating our embrace of the farm. “The ice cream tastes like ... I don’t know, like a soufflé. It looks like a soufflé too, and the soufflé tastes like an omelet.” He showed me samples of both, and sure enough, an egg explosion had taken over Joel’s usually stunning work.
Our recipes hadn’t changed, but what our chickens were eating certainly had. For any chicken lucky enough to enjoy a natural, pasture-based diet (and 95 percent aren’t), the beta carotene in the grass enhances the color, and the flavor, of their eggs’ yolks. The eggs from caged chickens pale by comparison—literally. With a pastured bird, you get an egg squared—more egg for your egg.
Pasturing also means less oil in your egg because the chickens double as sanitation ladies; as soon as the lambs (or other ruminants) leave one plot of grass, a crew of chickens moves in to feast on lingering grasses and bugs. More important, their plundering breaks up the manure left behind by previous tenants. If the manure stays in piles, the glut of nitrogen will burn the grass. But spread over the field by the chickens, manure acts as the perfect natural fertilizer, without tractors or spreaders. The next time the animals enter the paddock, the grass will be thicker, tastier, and more nutritious. Which means your egg gets squared and then some. Now get ready to change your recipes.
Pistou of Spring Vegetables and Almond Soft-Fried Egg
Serves 6
3⁄4 cup sugar snap peas, blanched
7-8 medium asparagus spears, cut into ½-in. pieces and blanched
1 lb. fava beans, cleaned and blanched *
1/2 bunch fresh basil leaves, cleaned and blanched
1/2 cup olive oil, plus more for sweating shallots
1 cup vegetable stock
1/2 shallot, finely diced
2 Tbsp mixed herbs (tarragon, chervil, chives, and parsley), chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 almond soft-fried eggs (recipe below)
*If fresh fava beans are unavailable, substitute fresh soy or lima beans.
1. Combine blanched vegetables. Place half in a blender with the blanched basil. Blend until chopped. Then add 1⁄2 cup olive oil in slow, steady stream, and blend until smooth.
2. In large, heavy saucepan, over medium heat, heat olive oil until hot but not smoking. Add shallot and sauté until translucent, 3–5 minutes. Stir in vegetable stock, vegetable purée, remaining blanched vegetables, salt, and pepper, and bring to simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are heated through, 3–5 minutes.
3. Ladle pistou into bowls, top with soft-fried egg (recipe below), and sprinkle each with herb mixture. Serve immediately.
Soft-fried eggs:
6 large eggs
3/4 cup Panko style breadcrumbs
1/2 cup finely ground almonds
1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs, beaten
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable/Peanut oil for frying
1. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil, gently add the eggs, and cook for 6 minutes. Immediately remove the eggs and immerse in a bowl of ice water until cold, then carefully peel and set aside.
2. In the first of 3 medium bowls, combine the Panko, almonds, parmesan,
salt and pepper. In the second bowl, whip the eggs until smooth. In the third bowl, combine the flour, salt, and pepper.
3. To coat the eggs; first roll the cold, soft-cooked eggs in the flour, shaking to remove any excess. Dip the eggs in the beaten egg mixture, then in the crumb mixture, rolling until completely coated. Repeat with a second coating of beaten egg and crumb mixture. Using your hands press the crumb mixture around the eggs to secure the coating. You can prepare the eggs to this stage and store refrigerated for up to 4 hours.
4. To cook the coated eggs; heat about 3 in. of oil to 350°F in a medium saucepan. Carefully add the eggs and cook, turning, until golden brown and heated through, about 2
Our recipes hadn’t changed, but what our chickens were eating certainly had. For any chicken lucky enough to enjoy a natural, pasture-based diet (and 95 percent aren’t), the beta carotene in the grass enhances the color, and the flavor, of their eggs’ yolks. The eggs from caged chickens pale by comparison—literally. With a pastured bird, you get an egg squared—more egg for your egg.
Pasturing also means less oil in your egg because the chickens double as sanitation ladies; as soon as the lambs (or other ruminants) leave one plot of grass, a crew of chickens moves in to feast on lingering grasses and bugs. More important, their plundering breaks up the manure left behind by previous tenants. If the manure stays in piles, the glut of nitrogen will burn the grass. But spread over the field by the chickens, manure acts as the perfect natural fertilizer, without tractors or spreaders. The next time the animals enter the paddock, the grass will be thicker, tastier, and more nutritious. Which means your egg gets squared and then some. Now get ready to change your recipes.
Pistou of Spring Vegetables and Almond Soft-Fried Egg
Serves 6
3⁄4 cup sugar snap peas, blanched
7-8 medium asparagus spears, cut into ½-in. pieces and blanched
1 lb. fava beans, cleaned and blanched *
1/2 bunch fresh basil leaves, cleaned and blanched
1/2 cup olive oil, plus more for sweating shallots
1 cup vegetable stock
1/2 shallot, finely diced
2 Tbsp mixed herbs (tarragon, chervil, chives, and parsley), chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
6 almond soft-fried eggs (recipe below)
*If fresh fava beans are unavailable, substitute fresh soy or lima beans.
1. Combine blanched vegetables. Place half in a blender with the blanched basil. Blend until chopped. Then add 1⁄2 cup olive oil in slow, steady stream, and blend until smooth.
2. In large, heavy saucepan, over medium heat, heat olive oil until hot but not smoking. Add shallot and sauté until translucent, 3–5 minutes. Stir in vegetable stock, vegetable purée, remaining blanched vegetables, salt, and pepper, and bring to simmer. Cook uncovered, stirring occasionally, until vegetables are heated through, 3–5 minutes.
3. Ladle pistou into bowls, top with soft-fried egg (recipe below), and sprinkle each with herb mixture. Serve immediately.
Soft-fried eggs:
6 large eggs
3/4 cup Panko style breadcrumbs
1/2 cup finely ground almonds
1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 large eggs, beaten
1/4 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Vegetable/Peanut oil for frying
1. Bring a medium pot of water to a boil, gently add the eggs, and cook for 6 minutes. Immediately remove the eggs and immerse in a bowl of ice water until cold, then carefully peel and set aside.
2. In the first of 3 medium bowls, combine the Panko, almonds, parmesan,
salt and pepper. In the second bowl, whip the eggs until smooth. In the third bowl, combine the flour, salt, and pepper.
3. To coat the eggs; first roll the cold, soft-cooked eggs in the flour, shaking to remove any excess. Dip the eggs in the beaten egg mixture, then in the crumb mixture, rolling until completely coated. Repeat with a second coating of beaten egg and crumb mixture. Using your hands press the crumb mixture around the eggs to secure the coating. You can prepare the eggs to this stage and store refrigerated for up to 4 hours.
4. To cook the coated eggs; heat about 3 in. of oil to 350°F in a medium saucepan. Carefully add the eggs and cook, turning, until golden brown and heated through, about 2






