Food: Cosmic Thing

Biodynamic viticulture is turning the wine world on its head

By Traci Hukill

Photo courtesy of Ceago and Bonny Doon Wineries

RANDALL GRAHM, Bonny Doon Vineyard’s lanky winemaker and innovator-in-chief, delights in going against the grain. He celebrated pink wine when everyone else was shunning it, topped his bottles with screw caps, and gave his wines cheeky names like “Bouteille Call” and “Critique of Pure Riesling.” Lately, Grahm is obsessed with terroir, the French term for the sense of place expressed through a wine. “A great wine tells you where it’s from,” he says. Grahm’s quest for a wine that communicates something unique has led him, like a growing number of other American vintners, to start growing his grapes biodynamically.
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Issue 25

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