Wait, No...We actually meant 'How to MISREAD An Egg Carton'


One of the ways we most liked to spend those lengthy, hazy-brained, snowed-in college nights was popping our battered VHS tape of Baraka into the VCR and sitting before it with a handle of vodka, a jar of peanut butter and a spoon (come on, I’m sure you did worse).  Elegant time-lapse images melted into one another, of monks in ocher robes swishing at their ankles, of a sun rising slowly over pride of lions, of the earth from space, majestic, serene.

 

 

 

The film lacks plot and words, but it does have a theme—the assorted nefariousnesses of globalization and the modern age—that gathers speed as the movie snowballs to an ominous end, replacing the monks with a chaotic L.A. gridlock scene, the lions with an eerie tour of Auschwitz, the earth with chicks on a conveyor belt.  I still remember a particuarly grisly shot of gloved hands holding a hot soldering iron to a chick’s beak, its legs pedaling desperately under a bug-eyed, wild stare, a wisp of smoke curling up from its face.  A professional de-beaker de-beaks twelve to fifteen birds a minute. 

Which is why I was dismayed to learn that, contrary to what I wrote in my last post, organic chickens CAN be debeaked, and often are.  They can also be force molted!

Turns out the USDA rules for organic laying hens are really vague, which is why I had such a hard time finding them.  The only things they specify is that the hens get fed an organic, all-vegetarian diet, and are allowed access to the outside (aka are free-range).  Beyond that everything is up to the producer.  Mission To Buy Supereggs: Potentially Failed!  Ye gads, back to the drawing board. 

So although on Monday I concluded that my dozen organic eggs were worth the $4.59, now I’m not so sure, because if the producer debeaks them, I’m not sure what differentiates them from Paul’s much cheaper “natural free-range eggs,” given that both eggs are fed vegetarian-ly, denied antibiotics and hormones, and have access to the outdoors.  I’ve called the producer for info and am waiting for a call back.

Here’s the guide to egg carton labels I wish had come up in my research last week.  Also, Peter Singer & Jim Mason’s book “The Way We Eat” has an interesting chapter debating the merits and demerits of eggs that are Certified Humane, UPC-certified and organic.

This really is more complicated than it seems or should be.  Chapter not closed!  Stay tuned.

Nathalie Jordi's appetites keep her bouncing between between County Cork, New York, London and the French Alps.  When not slinging curd or interviewing farmers, she writes for Travel&Leisure, Conde Nast Traveler, Gastronomica, and her blog at www.autobiogeography.com.  Her dreams of a life spent baking, drinking margaritas, and sitting in the sun are gathering steam during her current stint as a waitress in New York City.

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